more NUKU HIVA

*sorry things are not as organized as they should be - the internet connection goes in and out and sometimes it just doesn't work out on here like I want! Try to enjoy my musings and photos anyway!*

After six marvelous days at sea, it was 'land ho!' when we spotted NUKU HIVA. The second largest (and capital) of the Marquesas Islands (part of French Polynesia) is Nuku Hiva. The cute little port town is called Taiohae.

These remote islands have connections to long ago as well as recent past. You may remember the name Marquesas because one of the 'Survivor' seasons was filmed here. It may also ring a bell because of authors Herman Melville and Robert Louis Stepehnson lived here. Herman Melville actually was a hand on a whaling ship and deserted and lived there for a time where he was inspired to write accounts of his experiences in books titled 'Typee' and 'Omoo'. Artist Paul Gaugin also lived his last years in Nuku Hiva after leaving Tahiti. As far as the island is concerned, it is of volcanic origin. There are ten islands that make up the chain (with only six that are inhabited). It was too shallow for our gigantic ship to pull into the pier (well, the pier wouldn't have been able to handle a ship that large either). When we can't dock, we get to have the fun experience of 'tendering' to shore. The 'tender' is actually one of the many lifeboats that they lower and herd the passengers onto and then take everyone to the dock and deposit them there for their island adventures. There are pictures of Tiny Kona riding in the tender.

The ship is in the background (doesn't it look HUGE?!). Part of the fun of tendering is going down to the bottom deck of the ship (well, the last deck before the waterline) and taking about ten steps down to a platform where the tender is pulled up next to. The tender is bobbing up and down in the waves and the platform is relatively still, so it is a bit tricky for many of the passengers to step on the tender. Then there's the ones with their canes and walkers (what?!?!), but the crew is awesome and makes sure everyone is safe. After piling into the tender, the 'driver' takes us to the island. You can see the picture of TK with the boat driver.

The dock area where we got off the tenders was pretty little. There were a few small shops, the visitor center and a small outdoor market. When we got off the tender, it had just started raining, but it was the usual light tropical moisture that mostly just feels good. It quit after a few minutes, but the humidity was extremely high. The islands, sans white sandy beaches, reminded me a bit of Hawaii, since they are volcanic. As you can see in the pictures there are rugged mountain peaks and lava outcroppings along the coast. The vegetaion included mango trees, papayas, bananas, guava, breadfruit as well as hibiscus, bouganvillia and plumeria (called frangipani in the southern hemisphere). You can say it felt a bit like Hawaii, but maybe the Hawaii of 100 years ago, except for maybe the cars, cell phones and power poles!

The people were extremely friendly and the little kids all waved at us as they rode by. I was surprised at all the new vehicles, but have since surmised that it's not been all that long that they've actually even HAD cars on the island! I missed taking a picture of the school bus ('le infants transport', or something to that effect), its front looked mostly like the front cab of a truck, but the back was a WOODEN structure, open - no windows - and bench seats! Who wouldn't LOVE riding to school in THAT! Some of the things they sold in the markets were jewelry (made out of seeds and shells), carved tikis, swords, turtles and such, and my FAVORITE - pareos (sarongs). I got one that looks very traditional for the islands and a handpainted one too.

I took a little walk down the main road that goes around the bay. There were houses, the bank (note picure, with TK sitting on the front steps) that is open from 9AM to 1PM, then 4PM to 6PM. Nice siesta. I walked past the elementary and secondary schools. There was a really cool church there, probably the biggest structure on the island. There are a bunch of pictures taken there. Note TK sitting on the back bench saying her prayers. There were cool carved details all around, as well as some big carved fellas out front.

One of my favorite things in Taiohae was this little hotel (?) that was made up of numerous 'grass' huts. So cute! I would totally live in one of those (if it had a REAL bathroom). Check out the photo with the guy's shorts hanging out to dry.

I saw many stone carvings, some looking ancient, worn down and covered in moss. There were also some newer ones - TK was a bit embarrassed to have her picture taken with one that was obnoxiously phallic (see if you can spot the offender).

It was a beautiful little place. Roosters and chickens hanging around, a limping mamma dog crossing the road and the total feeling of peace and tranquility. Tiny Kona thought for - only a minute - that she may jump ship - but with Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora and Raiatea coming up, there was no contest getting back on our beautiful home away from home, the Amsterdam.

TINY KONA'S TRUISM for the day... them's some BIG papayas!