Bora Bora...

the island so nice they named it twice...

As if Tahiti and Moorea weren't wonderful enough, the anticipation of going to Bora Bora made me a little dizzy. I have heard how this happened to be described as the most beautiful island in the world. I had seen scores of pictures and had thouroughly studied the island and it's multi-hued lagoons and numerous motus (tiny islands) for as long as I can remember. I have to admit, that it wasn't a letdown, as a matter of fact, seeing it in person was almost more than my senses could handle! You MUST google the island (especially if you are unfamilar with it) just to get where I am coming from. And I have to tell you, just like Hawaii, the pictures can hardly do it justice, since there's a feeling there that only enhances the visual beauty.

The ship glided into the lagoon early on Sunday morning and the beauty unfolded right before my eyes. The squarish Mount Otemanu was somehow a little tombstone looking, but the whole view was something I couldn't believe I was finally seeing with my own eyes! It was a sunny day, with usual clouds here and there. Bora Bora is a 'tender' port, so we were up and dressed in our church clothes early so we could catch the first tender. Get settled, because this is a LONG post - SO many things to tell you and a plethora of pictures! (It will probably end up being two or three posts now that I think about it!).

If you know me at all, you surely know that I find connections all over the world (remember Papeete, and the guy that knew someone I knew in Arizona?). If you don't know me very well, let's just say, after this post, you will get that I am some kind of 'magnet' for coincidental connections. (I think I will start a new blog about 6 degrees of separtion, except mine will be entitled 3 degrees of connection...) You may need to take notes, so get ready!

Since it was Sunday, we were sure we wanted to go to church, since so many Sundays we are at sea (and we don't even GET a Sunday next week when we cross the international dateline and lose a day!).

Because I knew we would be in Bora on a Sunday, I e-mailed Kyle's best pal Jonathan, to see if we could get some insight on the church building location and times. Jonathan (first connection) had served a mission in Tahiti and spend a number of months in Bora Bora, and I figured he could send me in the right direction at least. Well, he let me know that one of his missiona companions just happened to be the Bishop (congeragation head) there!

How lucky for us - but it get's even better. This guy's wife has excellent English speaking skills and she was going to meet us at the dock and give us a ride to church! The meeting started at 8 AM, and that's what time the tenders were supposed to start shuttling us back and forth, so we made sure we were on the first one. We actually got on land a few minutes before 8 and looked around hoping to connect with Mirihau. We didn't know what she looked like, but I was carrying a HUGE jar of Jelly Bellies (I actually had two). I think that is the international sign of 'I'm American, can you give me ride to church?'). {A little background, Jonathan asked me to bring his companion some Jelly Bellies, and I was only too willing to run all over Long Beach trying to find them! maybe I mentioned this story already...}

I do think mom and I were a little obvious in our church clothes, but a cute gal drives up and looks at us with at least some familiarity, and as we make eye contact, I hold up the (HUGE) jar of Jelly Bellies and get a big smile and a wave. We quickly meet up with the usual Polynesian affection, hop in the car and get to the church (maybe a five minute drive from the pier) and breeze in just a few minutes late.

I have to tell you that it was a sea of black hair and beautiful brown skin, smiling faces and singing that sounded like angels. The services were done in French, and I sang the familiar songs in English right along. The babies and kids were adorable and the spirit of the congregation permeated the building. As I sat there taking it all in, I look out the windows to the left, and just on the other side of the church were mangoes and papayas growing. Out the right window I could hear a rooster crowing as if singing in his own language to the hymns. The last portion of the meeting we got to hear a lesson spoken in Tahitian, which was really special.

After the meeting, we got to visit with the missionaries who were serving there - an Elder from Utah, Elder Harding (who just happened to know Jonathan from his missionary training-another connection!) and Elder Punu from Tahiti. As we were talking, I related the story of my Papeete temple visit and my ride to the ship by this guy named Arnold. So the Tahitian Elder asks me what his last name was, and I say 'Punu', and he says, 'that's my uncle!' (I hadn't caught this Elder's last name before I started telling the story) - connection #3(!). My response to that statement - are you ready?! - 'SHUT UP!!!' It's such a small world!

It was quite a memorable day at church, and everyone was so nice and friendly. There were a few sisters who interpreted things here and there for us. Such nice gals, all of them.Since Bishop had meetings, Mirihau and Saena (her friend who speaks English too, and, may I add, has a sister that knew Jonathan from his missionary days-dare I say ANOTHER connection?!), gave us a personal tour around the island (all nineteen miles of it!). We were able to stop and take pictures and gather in the pristine beauty of this tropical paradise. They related some ancient legends that helped us connect with their culture.

One place we got to check out was the famous 'Bloody Mary's'. It was closed since it was Sunday, but it was an open structure, so TK and I went to take a look around and get some pictures. Here's some fun info, instead of having a 'coat check', they have a 'shoe check' - since the entire floor is sand! It was very charming and I certainly didn't mind it being closed for our visit.

There are a couple of photos with TK pointing at something. One of them is a hole in the side of Mt. Otemanu, which is where a huge centipede legend exists. The other is a phallic looking rock, and we think it's better to just leave that one to your imaginations!

We stopped by a lady's house that had pareaus hanging EVERYWHERE. She makes them and they are beautiful. She had a table full of bite size pieces of fresh fruit and coconut. A very generous lady - and talented too! I think I might want to learn how to make pareaus like that and move to some tropical island and share my fruit with people! (Oh wait, I kinda already do that.)

We made our way around the island, taking pictures of various beaches and the motus. The overwater bungalows scattered all over the motus looked very inviting (although VERY expensive). I know the pictures look nice, but they really don't do this place justice!When we got back to Mirihau's house, Bishop was back from his meetings and getting ready to go to work. He drives the water shuttle that takes people from the main island to the airport, which happens to be on one of the larger motus. (There is a picture of him driving from the harbor after we got back on the ship.)

We got to visit a little while and he had his photo album out, with a number of pictures of he and Jonathan's missionary days. I just had to take a picture of him holding one of the pictures of his and Jonathan's 'young selves'. So precious! There are a few other pictures I took of Their little family (did I mention their little one year old daughter? Her English name is Rebecca, don't ask me her Tahitian name! She was in her carseat for our tour and was SUCH a good baby. She took a bit of a liking to Tiny Kona and TK was just as enamored with her!) I also took a picture of our AWESOME hostesses/tour guides, Mirihau and Saena.

Oh, and let me tell you about their ADORABLE house! It is right ON the water. The pictures were taken on their porch, and if you look close you can see the cruise ship behind them! What a gorgeous place! Thank you all for sharing, we didn't want to go!

Sitting on the ship the rest of the evening, looking out over the island, it's green jagged peaks, azure lagoon, numerous motus, island houses and so many boats, it was the perfect ending to our wonderful Sunday. Notice the picture of the rainbow of outrigger canoes that were drafting behind the tenders as they shuttled passengers back and forth between the ship and dock. I watched them for quite a while, and it looked rather fun!Since we got to spend the night in beautiful Bora Bora and have another day in paradise on Monday, and with all the connections everyone seems to have, we made plans for an 8AM meeting time...but I will have to write another post for that!

TINY KONA'S TRUISM of the day...One day is NOT enough in Bora Bora - I guess that's why it's name isn't just Bora.

MOOREA

How can this tiny island, only twelve miles from Papeete, be like another world? I guess less people DO make a diiference, but I think there's more to it than that. We got to tender to the dock again, so it was fun for Tiny Kona and I to start our journey to this beautiful place with an awesome view as we 'drove' up. Moorea is (another) volcanic island. This one is unique because half of the island either blew off when the volcano erupted, or it just eroded away, no one knows for sure (TK says it happened quite a while ago - even the oldsters on the ship weren't around when it happened). The shape of the island is described as either heart-shaped or likened to a butterfly. Either way it is atypical with its two bays and large peaks. I hope everyone who isn't familiar with the islands I'm describing, google them for more info. I would add links for you, but the internet reception is so slow (which makes it even MORE expensive for me).
Anyway, I digress. Back to the lush and sleepy island of Moorea. Dancers greeted us as we got off the tenders and there were some small craft booths set up for our shopping pleasure. Right next to that area was the 'octagon' church. It was actually quite amazing, with this HUGE arched ceiling. The picture doesn't do it justice! The Polynesians love their churches and on Sundays they fill the aisles and singing spills out the open windows and doors (TK used the opportunity to give thanks).
I decided I was going to the beach today. I have been missing my beach time in Maui, so it seemed appropriate, especially after my busy Papeete day. I started walking toward one of the hotels, being told it was about 2 or 3 kilometers. There were cute little houses and SO many flowers and plants. I had to stop and take some pictures of the rusted out construction equipment, covered with vines, that was sitting along the road. It was such a picturesque sight, I couldn't pass it up. It kind of tell you how slow life is on Moorea. I also just had to take a picture of the coconut cemetary, there were innumerable coconuts left to die there! TK thought it was abit wasteful...
Soon after, a taxi driver asked if I wanted a ride, but I refused (he was heading the other direction). A few minutes later he came by again (going my way this time) and told me it was a 5 MILE walk to the beach (is the island EVEN that big?!). I wasn't sure if I could trust him, but I got a good look and realized I could flatten the dude with one good punch (plus he was at least sixty), so I hopped in the car and made him a deal. I told him to pick me up at 2 (this was about 9:30 or so) and I would pay him 1000 francs (about $10) when he gave me a ride back to the ship. About a minute later we went past the hotel I was walking to, but he took me to a different place that he said was better. It was very nice and TK and I enjoyed a wonderful day in the surf and sand.As you can see in all of the pictures, we enjoyed the 'Frenchness' of the island, and all the beachy things that surrounded us. There were 'motus', which are very small islands, all around the outer reef. I took photos in all directions, sorry if the sun is bright in some of them. We had a great time sunning, reading, swimming and napping, then met up with the taxi dude and headed back to the ship, but not before I took pictures of more of the flora I walked past. I like how resourceful they are with coconut husks! And speaking of resourceful, don't you just LOVE the bus?! It was a heavenly day.
TINY KONA'S TRUISM of the day... Moorea has more colors than a 64 count crayola box

PAPEETE

If this is just the start of my island bliss, well, i just don't know how I can go on! As the ship approached Tahiti, I couldn't help crying a little. Not sure if it made me homesick for Maui (it looked very similar) or if maybe my heart was bursting, seeing this island with my own two eyes, after longing to come here for SO long! At any rate, it was quite spectacular cruing into Papeete harbor. There was another cruise ship docked near us and the port area was bustling. It was nice to be able to just walk right off the ship and we were greeted by musicians and dancers and even a fresh flower to place behind an ear! We were right where all the action is, so we walked just a few blocks to the marketplace - called 'MARCHE MUNICIPALE'. It reminded me a bit of the 'International Marketplace' in Waikiki. There were tons of people, both locals, doing their shopping (mostly on the first floor) and the tourists shopping mostly on the 2nd floor. Downstairs there were flower stands, with tropical flowers of every color, size, smell and configuration. If you were going to a funeral, wedding or airport gretting - or even just a bag of petals to make your own lei you could find whatever your heart desired here. There were pastry (patissiere) counters, with mouth watering treats, fish stands, with their fresh catch chilling on beds of ice, and a plethora of fruits and vegetables. It was quite lively and most everyone speaking French ( Emily, I could sure use your verbal skills this week!). If someone bumped into you, it was 'pardon', or people greeting you with a friendly 'bon jour' (you MUST say these words -even in your head- with a French accent). Upstairs, we shopped for pareaus, pearls, and numerous woven crafts. Lots of carved items and jewelry and other items made out of shells. One interesting thing was that many shops had (emptied) water bottles filled with sand or different kinds of shells. I guess they were for doing your own craft thing, but it was just kind of funny because they were just used water bottles filled with the stuff.

Of course, for those who know me, you would not be surprised that I would be looking for a fabric store (as my family lets out a collective groan ;-) ), but my French-speaking skills lacking, I had a hard time finding one. Then someone says 'tissues?' and a lightbulb goes off in my head - that must be the french word for fabric, I've seen that word on patterns for years. So I am directed to the store, only to find it closed for lunch (these people really know how to live!). We are a bit hungry, so we go back to the market and head upstairs to their equivalent to a food court. I really don't want much to eat, and they have french bread cut in one inch pieces, in a large bowl, and I ask if I can buy some. The darling girl tells me I can have any I want. Then she gives me a plate of fresh fruit - pineapple, mango and banana - all gratis! I did buy a bottle of water, and mom got something to eat, but the girl was so nice and adorable and the boy in the 'kitchen' is the first in my long list of 'bruddah-licious' boys that will be making appearances on this blog - teehee!

We sit at a table and consume our goodies, while a couple of guys are singing, with a tv behind them showing pictures and videos of these beautiful Society Islands. Tiny Kona was grooving to the music and then, out of the blue, they start singing 'Hanalei Moon' - which is one of my hula songs! I was going to get up and do my hula dance for the crowd, but TK gave me stink-eye, so I decided I better save my talents for the passengers on the ship on 'talent night!

We noticed some girls getting their costumes on and figured out we were going to get some REAL dancers, so even though we were done with our food, we decided to wait and watch the show (the fabric store wouldn't be open from lunch for another 30 minutes anyway). Our table needed to be moved to the side for the dancers, and more people were coming, so we shared our table with an American guy who was from the other cruise ship. His wife was getting a tatoo, so he was just relaxing, drinking a beer (just in case you see it in one or two of the pictures, you KNOW it couldn't be mine or Tiny Kona's!). One of the highlights of cruising is meeting great people. Even though Mike and Sherry weren't on OUR ship, it was still fun to talk to them. I will be posting later about some of the people we have met on this cruise, namely our tablemates, so be on the lookout for that later. The dancers were a pleasure to watch, and maybe one of these days I can learn to do THAT with my body - hahaha.

After the girls were done shaking their hips, we headed back to the fabric store (it's near the 'BIP BIP BURGER FAST FOOD - is that a roadrunner?!). After an hour or so, we got out of there with only a couple of bags of goods. It was really fun for me as they had lots of cool stuff. Now I'm gonna have to bust out the sewing machine!

We headed back to the ship with our wares (besides the fabric, we bought a pareau, a 'haku' (lei for the crown of your head), a straw hat, REAL Tahitian vanilla beans, and some tahitian tiare oil and soaps. The traffic was getting pretty crazy as we were going back to the ship. No stoplights here, just roundabouts. Lots of cars, trucks and scooters zooming aroung. Luckily a couple of gendearmes were there to keep things moving along.

After dropping off the stuff, I decided I was going to find a way to get to the temple. I put on a skirt and decent shoes and headed out on my quest (me and TK). After talking to a number of people and not getting anywhere, I finally found a taxi driver that knew where it was. He took me straight there - it was maybe ten minutes away - and WOW! There it was, pretty much in the middle of a neighborhood. Kind of a large complex though, with a church (or two?), geneology library, mission home and offices. The front of the temple was fenced off because they are redoing the gardens, so I couldn't get the whole 'picture', but it was still beautiful - and I was THERE! Everyone was SO nice, and I wish (again) that I had French-speaking skills, but I did my best to understand the language and everyones smiles went a long way. What wonderful people, and I truly mean that!
I was given a ride back to the ship by a brother and his 2 daughters. And, of course, it's a small world as he mentions that a missionary companion he had in 1984 was someone I knew from Arizona! The beauty of the islands is so awesome, but the connections with the people are truly magical!

Before getting back on the ship I see there is some action in this large open area at the pier where there is also a bandstand. I'm not sure if this is a typical Friday ritual or not, but it was quite festive. A band was playing in the bandstand (quite good) and kids were dancing, playing tag, riding bikes, scooters and rollerblades. People were dancing and talking and chasing their munchkins around. They were all nationalities, including scores of people off the cruise ships. They had dozens of food booths selling all kinds of food. One of the pictures shows the bandstand with my ship in the background.

After 45 minutes or so, I get back aboard the ship, then grab a bite to eat and go watch the night show of Tahitian dancers (another group came onto the ship). They were excellent. Lots of costumes and beautiful girls and bruddah-licious guys. And you can't forget the drummers and musicians! After the show I went up to one of the higher decks to look out over the city and take it all in. Papeete is one of the ports we get to stay overnight in, so it's a treat to be docked and see the island at night. So as I am soaking in the twinkling lights and listening to some techno music spilling from a club a block away, I see something orange that is quite puzzling to me. As I look closer, I realize the moon is coming up over the mountains in the background of the city. It was like a half pumpkin rising over the city. It had to be one of the most spectacular moonrises I have ever witnessed! Sorry the picture doesn't do it any justice, but trust me when I say it was INCREDIBLE!

TINY KONA'S TRUISM of the day... Fletcher Christian KNEW what he was doing!

My day and evening in Papeete couldn't have been better scripted. I would have loved to stay FOREVER, but the little island, just over my shoulder about 12 miles, is calling...