RAIATEA

We pulled up to the island of Raitea, this time getting to dock at the pier (no tendering!). It looked beautiful from my view, high atop the eighth deck of the ship, as we pulled up to the dock. I took some photos of the area and was surprised at the newness of everything at the wharf. Looking out over the water on the other side, I tried to imagine how my day was going to take shape. It was a little cloudy, kind of looking like rain - but I didn't care. I had something else on my mind. Or should I say someONE? Lucky me. I have another 'connection' meeting me today. I do not know her, except to know her name is Sylvie and she had been a college roomate to a friend of mine who lives in Maui.

I had a bag packed with things for Silvie, including SEVEN books, some special shampoo that she wanted, and reading glasses for her mom. I had offered to bring her anything she wanted/needed from the U.S. (hoping, of course, to get a personal tour of the island). The ship was docked and we were off right before eight, the second people down the plank. I had made a sign with Silvie's name on it, and I looked ahead, and I see a paper with MY name on it! We were fast friends (the leis she put around our necks were ABSOLUTELY heavenly!) and Silvie had a day already planned for us.

We put all the goodies in the car and walked to the market across the street to get some water and juice. The town we were in is actually the second largest in French Polynesia, but still pretty little by my standards. There was quite a bit of traffic, but always polite drivers, lots of scooters, and of course, happy faces everywhere. There was also quite a bit of hustle bustle at the market - a forklift unloading pallets right at the front of the store - and tons of shoppers.

A little more background on the island of Raiatea. In ancient times, this was the meeting place for all things sacred. It was kind of considered the 'United Nations' of Polynesia, with the large marae (sacred ceremonial site) called Taputapuatea. Geographically, the island has a sister island called Taha'a, that is surrounded by the same reef, thus sharing a lagoon with Raiatea (and don't forget the motus). Taha'a is smaller and almost otherworldly, even though it's only a fifteen minute water shuttle away. It is known for it's production of vanilla (although it does grow on many of the Society Islands).

Back to our adventure, we hopped in the car and drove to Silvie's home (about ten or fifteen minutes away) and met her mom, Dorina and dad (nicknamed) Buddah. Her little niece Cindy was there too. They were so nice and told us we would be having lunch (let's just say feast) with them later. First, Buddah wanted to teach me how to pollinate vanilla plants. We took a short walk to where his vanilla plants were growing and he gave me a quick lesson. Then he put me to work and I figured I might be there for the rest of the day (and I forgot my insect repellant!). The vanilla flowers are so pretty, and it's amazing how the vanilla vines just grow all over everything. You can see the pods in may of the pictures.

We went back to the house, and all the girls (including three year old Cindy) hopped in the car for some sightseeing. We went to a (unofficial) botanical garden. It had some cool plants and flowers. TK swung from a vine and checked out some interesting plant life (including some crazy tree roots). Serioulsy, it's like a jungle, with smells, sounds and sights that were in a word - heavenly. I just HAD to take a picture of one of the local busses, too.

One of the places that's a must see, was the Taputapuatea marae. We walked around and read about some of the history and traditions of the ancient Tahitians. (I will spare you the cannibalistic details). After missionaries came, most of their taditions were abolished, as well as the physical attributes of many of the marae, thus leaving much of the workmanship missing. You can still get an idea from the pictures how HUGE it was, and some of the standing slabs were the spots where the chiefs would rest their backs against.As Sylvie drove us around her beautiful island, I took pictures of the coast and other scenery and then we headed back home for lunch. More info about Silvie's fam. Her dad is a fisherman (inside the reef) and the family lives on land that is pretty much a family plot. All the surrounding houses are family members. The property is right on the water, so their fishing boats are basically right in their own back yard!

We got to then meet Cindy's papa (Silvie's brother-in-law), Yves. (he's a deep water fisherman and 'Frenchman - meaning he was more French than Polynesian or Chinese). He decided he was going to 'open' some coconuts so we could have some juice to drink. I watched how he handled the machete and quickly sliced off the 'bottom' of the coconut to make it flat, so it could sit and not tip over. Then he went all around the top and sliced pieces off, kind of at an angle, which left a perfect spot to open an area about the size of a nickel, right on the top. This made for a perfect opening to swig down the coconut juice. And let me tell you what quick work it was for him to open a half dozen of those things!

The table was laden with fresh mangoes and bowls of rice, chicken and veggies, fish and pork. I also got to try a fruit I had never laid my eyes on. They called it a star apple. It was kind of purple on the outside, with a skin akin to a nectarine, but the inside was somewhat the texture of a kiwi. We ate until we were full, and then ate some more! And if that wasn't enough, Yves had made a cake too! Which we ate with ice cream, of course!

We dragged ourselves back to the car (after taking some photos first) and headed back to town. I was hoping to find a fabric store (who, me?), and maybe pick up a trinket or two. It was raining, but I was prepared with the umbrella packed in my bag. Dorina knew of a shop, so we went there and I bought some cute fabric (and went back and made a skirt with it that afternoon!). I also had an order from one of my friends on the mainland for some special perfumed oil, made only in Tahiti. We were able to find that at a different store (that's where I took the picture of the plethora of baguettes, which I thought was so cute), and in the end I was pretty happy at how wonderful the day had gone. Sylvie and Dorina walked us back to the dock so we could get back on the ship (mom was exhausted by that time) and it was SO hard to say good-bye. The specialness of the day wasn't over yet, however, as mom and I were each given two gifts!

I just can't tell you how memorable our day was, and it had EVERYTHING to do with the special people we got to meet. Words cannot express the thanks I have in my heart for these truly warm and generous people. Our five days in the Society Islands was ending, but the thoughts will linger forever, or at least until I return.

TINY KONA'S TRUISM of the day...in my heart forever and ever, the intoxicating islands of French Polynesia


*sorry the pictures aren't in order*